Running low on supplies and precious water, we had to pack it up and find a town again. San Ignacio was in our path, so we decided to stock up and look for a hot shower and internet.
San Ignacio is a sweet, old mission town, with a classic downtown square. This quaint little pueblo is focused around the church, which was completed in 1786. It has quite a different feel than the rest of the peninsula. Very established, with a large freshwater spring that provides much life, producing a tiny oasis.
We filled our water at the local agua purificado estacion and grabbed plenty of produce at the local mercado. Supplies full once again, we parked in the square and strolled around looking for a bite to eat.
Settling into a covered brick patio, we ordered pork carnitas especial, and conversed with fellow travelers. The owner of the restaurant came and went several times. A friendly and well respected man, complete with a mustache, ostrich boots, a beautiful pistol in his waistband, and a Cadillac Escalade. Mexican jefe if I ever did see one!
That night we settled into an rv park/bar/restaurant. After setting up camp, a large group of dirt bikers rolled in. We made fast friends as they replayed the days experiences. They were on an annual circumnavigation of Baja by dirt bike. We enjoyed hanging at the bar with them, listening to their banter. Reminding us much of our motorcycle friends from home. After a few drinks and some much appreciated intel on Baja, we retreated to our rolling home.
We spent the next day exploring the small city of Mulege, nestled next to the Sea of Cortez, on the Rio Santa Rosalia. Such a cool place. So much charm, with bakeries, restaurants, and artisanal goods in a quaint, vintage setting. While strolling the streets, it was easy to imagine the old way of life bustling around in the town’s hay day. We found it had a similar feel to our hometown of Staunton. If only it was on the pacific side, with some surf, we could see ourselves hanging here for quite awhile.
We again settled onto a brick patio, filled with tropical flowers and birds singing Mexican bird songs. We were served the freshest, tastiest shrimp tacos of the trip thus far. Quite the award, considering the countless amount of fresh shrimp tacos we have devoured while in Baja!
We spent the remainder of the afternoon exploring the town. Feeling completely blessed, we wandered and wondered, when would we meet all of the bandidos and rapists we were warned so much about? Surely not here in Mulege. Just one warm, friendly amigo after another…..
